Nomadic Tales My perception of small countries is that the chances of finding a secluded spot to pitch a tent without being seen are very low. The land tends to be expensive and fully utilized, and I imagined that landowners wouldn’t appreciate tents on property they’ve paid dearly for. I resisted the temptation to try even a single night of wild camping in Switzerland, fearing a hefty fine. However, I did camp in Luxembourg, not one, but two nights. In Kehl, Germany, just across the river from Strasbourg, I managed one night of wild camping, but it was far from comfortable. Two men walking in the distance kept watching me for about half an hour. Despite my green tent blending into the grassy ground with a forested backdrop, and being 400 meters from the road, they appeared suspicious, stepping left and right, perhaps trying to get a better view. Since wild camping is generally frowned upon in Germany, I usually avoid it, but I wanted to try anyway. I had spent a full week near ...
Nomadic Tales
In Serbia, on the road from Niš to Belgrade, I stopped at a roadside shop to get something to eat. The gazebo next to the shop, where I had my meal, seemed to be the gathering place for locals to drink beer. Friendly and generous people, just looking for a moment to relax, and despite the language barrier, we could even have a bit of a conversation. One of them, before leaving, asked me if I had been to Vrnjačka Banja and pointed off into the distance, to the other side of the valley.
The road to Vrnjačka Banja branched off the main road just 50 meters before the gazebo, and I would’ve missed the opportunity had I not stopped at that shop. After a quick search on Google, I understood that the spa town of Vrnjačka Banja was worth the detour, so I went to visit it. As expected from Serbia’s most popular resort, the town has plenty of peaceful spots, well-maintained parks and decorated houses, thermal baths, and mineral springs.
By comparison, the Borsec resort in Romania is quite similar. I’ve passed by each spring there many times to taste the naturally carbonated water. Out of habit, I did the same in Vrnjačka Banja, stopped at each spring and tasted the water from all of them.
At one of the springs, in the courtyard of a treatment center, I found a doctor to ask if it was okay to drink the water there. I was told, “just a little,” and after asking for clarification and finding out that “a little” meant one cup, I did a quick calculation in my head, figured I hadn’t yet reached that limit, and drank a bit more. An important detail, because the next day I found out why it had to be only one cup.
Drawn in by the advertisements and general buzz coming from the thermal bath area, I decided to go in for a few hours. After soaking in different pools, from hot to warm and then cold in the outdoor pool, I ended up staying really late. So late, in fact, that I hadn’t even left the town by the time the sun was setting and because of the mountainous terrain, moving forward was tough with all the climbs. With little chance of finding a place to camp in daylight outside the town, I invited myself into someone’s garden.
It wasn’t too hard. In my search for a spot, on a road that ended in a cornfield, I ran into some locals chatting. Being asked what I was looking for, I explained and was offered a corner of the garden to pitch my tent. It was a big garden with a lawn, a large house (apparently uninhabited), and a few outbuildings. I guess the person who invited me was a caretaker, not the owner. The conclusion was reinforced by the 3-meter-high fence surrounding a decently large property, the two stories high large house with window blinds shut and no sign of life, the sturdy gate locked with a padlock overnight, and from what I understood, surveillance cameras.
A confusing conversation in four languages, all mixed into the same sentences, didn’t help us understand each other very well. After a while, I only figured out where to get drinking water and where to put the tent, and that was about it. Before I had the chance to ask if there was a toilet, the man vanished without a trace, and I didn’t see where he went. The main house, with its shutters closed and no lights, didn’t look like where he’d gone, and the unlit outbuildings showed no signs of being occupied either.
The next morning was worse. I woke up with a rumbling stomach from the mineral water, likely the one limited to one cup, and there wasn’t a soul in sight. I won’t write here how I dealt with that crisis, but no, I didn’t poop in the guy’s garden, even though the thought crossed my mind as my stomach urged me on.
That’s why I prefer not to sleep in people’s gardens, even though I’ve also had good experiences with it in the past.
Serbia, jun 2022
Unforgettable Sights & Hidden Gems
Vrnjačka Banja: Where Ancient Springs Meet Modern Relaxation
Scattered throughout the town and surrounding region are numerous natural mineral water springs, each with unique compositions believed to support various health benefits, from digestive issues to metabolic conditions. Some of the springs within the town have been enclosed in elegantly designed pavilions and historical buildings, adding architectural charm to their therapeutic allure.
The thermal waters here naturally emerge at temperatures close to the human body, around 36.5°C, making them ideal for soaking and relaxation. The modern thermal bath complex in Vrnjačka Banja builds on this legacy, offering a serene and restorative experience. Visitors can move between a variety of pools, with water ranging from warm to cool, creating a gentle contrast that stimulates circulation and eases muscle tension.
One particularly delightful feature is the seamless transition between the indoor warm-water pool and the outdoor section, a maze of cooler pools and connecting canals. Whether you're floating under the open sky or navigating the meandering channels, the sense of calm is unmistakable. For those seeking a touch of fun, the impressive outdoor waterslide adds a playful twist to the otherwise tranquil setting.
Blending natural beauty, historical depth, and wellness tourism, Vrnjačka Banja continues to be one of Serbia’s most beloved spa towns, where the past and present flow together in the mineral-rich waters of its legendary springs.
Roadside Hacks
To enhance security, some attach fishing rod bells to their bikes to make noise if there's movement. Others tie a string from their bike to their finger, so they’ll feel a tug in their sleep. I took a more tech-driven approach: I built a bike alarm using Arduino and an Android app, which notifies me on my phone when the bike is moving.
The system uses a sensitive ball switch that detects movement when armed. The phone connects to the device via Bluetooth, and it receives alerts in case of bike movement, low battery, or connection loss, offering an extra layer of peace of mind.
I've also put together a step-by-step Instructable so you can build a simplified version of this device yourself. The companion Android app is available on Google Play for easy download.
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